Culinary Star
Paul McCabe is the new Executive Chef at the Royal Palms Resort in Scottsdale, home to T. Cooks. To this property he brings television star good looks, a leading-man soap opera charm, and culinary skills that encourages every tourist who appreciates gourmet cuisine to become his new BFF.
Ignore the Interior
When I walked into T. Cooks I was bewildered by the ambiance; the space reminded me of a local beer and brew with dated wrought iron ceiling fixtures and a room temperature appropriate for a sauna. With a budget of $2million, Haley Balzano of Bar Napkin Productions (Phoenix) is responsible for the entire space including a glass- enclosed wine and tequila tasting room.
Focus on the Food
Since the chef and the restaurant were seriously recommended as a “MUST TASTE,” I stifled my first impression – which was to get out…and forced myself to focus on the menu. Fortunately, an enlightening discussion with McCabe plus a long and interesting conversation with a brilliant mixologist, enabled me to concentrate on the food…which is superb!
Masterful Influence
Born in Sedona, McCabe found the kitchen as a comfort zone thanks to his Mother. He studied with Julia Childs at the age of twelve and she taught him the fine art of braising (it has become one of his trademarks). He also studied with Michel Blanchet, a master of sauces.
His career track has brought him to association with dining hot spots in Los Angeles (L’Ermitage Hotel) and Arizona (Enchantment Resort) as well as L’Auberge del Mar Resort and Spa (Destination Hotels and Resorts collection) where he started Kitchen 1540, turning it into an award winning operation.
Having hotel and free-standing restaurant experience – he knows that his preference is for, “…bigger, multi-faceted operations.” He has won numerous awards, including:
– Award of Excellence. Wine Spectator Magazine
– Best Chef. Ranch and Coast Magazine
– Best Hotel Dining. San Diego City Search
– Chaine des Rotisseurs, San Diego Chapter (former member)
– Chef Feed Winner. One of the best things to Eat in San Diego
– Chef Hall of Fame. San Diego Home/Garden Lifestyles
– Golden Sceptre & Golden Bacchus Award. Southern California Restaurant Writers Association
– Guest Chef. James Beard House (4 times). NYC
– Rising Star of American Cuisine. James Beard Foundation
Management Style
Most people are clueless when it comes to running a gourmet restaurant. The management skills and personality combined with a sophisticated palate and the ability to translate the vision into reality (consistently) is a feat that must be admired and respected. Running large hotel food and beverage operations efficiently and effectively at a level that delights the guest and satisfies the c-suite executives appears to be “magic” but actually takes discipline and culinary skills combined with brilliance.
One technique McCabe uses to engage and challenge his team is akin to diagramming sentences. He begins with a single ingredient written on a piece of paper. Each member of his team adds an ingredient or flavor that fits the theme (i.e., Italian, French). The final product may then go through a market research process (does it taste good, will the guests like it, what will it cost to produce). Some ideas are added to the menu; others are discarded.
Concerned with freshness and quality, McCabe sources his Antelope from the Broken Arrow Ranch in Texas. The 1 million acre ranch does not put the animals in cages or use antibiotics – so the animals are not stressed from cramped living quarters. The result: better food on the table. While Antelope on the menu is “pretty edgy,” McCabes’ guests are happy campers, and have made this selection a best seller.
Adding to the talent at T. Cook’s is Charlie Zeiler, Lead Bartender and Mixologist at The Mix Up Bar. Originally from Ohio, he grew up in the food business. In 2000 he arrived in Phoenix and joined the Pointe South Resort (now Arizona Grand Resort). After a brief move to California (where he joined Marriott), he returned to Phoenix and was part of the opening team at the JW Marriott Desert Ridge Resort, joining the Royal Palms Resort in 2013.
Known as the father of the Green Acres Cocktail, this sublime mix of English peas and booze (Farmers Gin) is not only delicious to drink, it is pretty to see sitting in your glass (the cute little pea conjures up memories of spring meadows and summertime). The drink was a response to a McCabe challenge and now is a highlight of the bar selections. Zeiler recommends the cocktail lunch paired with a crab, shrimp, prawn or smoked salmon salad.
The Menu (personal favorites)
• Starters. Organic Corn Agnolotti (small pieces of flattened pasta typical of the Piedmont region of Italy; resembles priests caps) with lobster, roasted corn (organic white corn from Specialty Produce), chanterettles, brown butter.
A corn filling is tucked inside each pouch (Agnolotti) and the backside of a knife is used to extract the starch from the core. The mixture travels from the blender to the strainer and is heated for two hours resulting in a very thick puree. The lobster is poached, mushroom slivers are added and brown butter emulsified with veal stock is spread at the bottom of the bowl. The end result: A heavenly palate pleaser that rocks taste buds back and forth between sweet and earthy, bright and opulent.
• Garden Selection. Roasted Beet Salad with caramelized yogurt, pistachio brittle, Valdeon blue cheese, oranges.
Sweet and succulent baby beets are brought to the center of the stage thanks to the supporting stars of caramelized yogurt, pistachio brittle and Valdeon blue cheese.
The Valdeon blue cheese is a rich and creamy full-flavored cow and goat’s milk blend that is stronger than Stilton but less intense than Cabrales. The cheese wheel is wrapped in Sycamore leaves which adds to its distinctive appearance and complex flavor. It was named the best blue cheese in Spain (2003).
• Main. Whole Roasted Loup De Mer (Mediterranean or European sea bass) with garden tomatoes, arugula, black olives, hearts of cucumber, charred lemon vinaigrette.
Barzino/European sea bass, one of the first varieties of fish (after salmon), to be farmed commercially in Europe. Historically cultured in coastal lagoons and tidal reservoirs, the mass production techniques were developed in the late 1960s – taking production inland. The fish has a very mild flavor, with sweeter flesh than most white fish.
The fish is roasted in the oven (at a high heat), topped with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped herbs (tarragon and parsley) and lemon juice and served with greens sautéed in olive oil and garlic. It is briefly cooked under the broiler to crisp the skin. The big surprise is the hidden herring (check upon the sea bass). The sweetness of the bass and the saltiness of the herring and the earthiness of the olives make this selection amazingly memorable.
• Dessert. ChoColate praline torte milk chocolate mousse, caramelized banana anglaise, gianduja, pretzel ice cream. Beyond GOOD! Beyond EXCELLENT. Perhaps – the meal should start with this bit of heaven.
