- Robert Henriquez Santa Cruz de Coya 2021 Bio Bio. 100 percent País grapes
Tucked away in Chile’s southern wine country, far from the polished tasting rooms of more commercial regions, a vineyard holds secrets from centuries past. This is where Roberto Henríquez works with ancient, dry-farmed País vines, some planted over 200 years ago, on the granite-rich soils of the Nahuelbuta Mountains, spanning both the Bío-Bío and Itata Valleys. These vines, bush-trained rather than trellised, have grown unaltered by grafting since colonial times, tended quietly by generations of local families.
The vineyard is more than just a plot of land. It’s a living archive of Chilean viticultural history. Originally planted by Spanish missionaries, País once served as the country’s workhorse for sacramental and table wine. For decades, it was forgotten, overshadowed by imported French varieties. But today, thanks to a renewed appreciation for indigenous grapes and minimal-intervention winemaking, País is experiencing a renaissance, and few express it as purely as Henríquez.
What makes this vineyard truly special is its harmonious ecosystem. There’s no irrigation, no synthetic chemicals, not even copper or sulfur treatments. The vines thrive bush-trained alongside native trees, shaped by the cool, humid mountain climate. This setting allows Roberto to embrace zero-input agriculture, an intuitive, almost reverent approach that’s as much about preservation as it is about production.
The name Santa Cruz de Coya nods to a long-lost indigenous settlement, underscoring the cultural depth of this land. And the wine it produces? A mineral-driven, light-bodied País with pale ruby hues and raw, unfiltered beauty.
In The Glass
Eye: Pale ruby in the glass with a faint cloudiness; un-fined, unfiltered, and alive.
Nose: Fragrant and wild, with notes of fresh strawberries, raspberries, and crushed red currants. Hints of dried herbs, rose petals, and a soft earthy undertone.
Palate: Light yet deeply expressive. The wine shows bright red fruit, crunchy acidity, and a distinctive granite-driven minerality. There’s a slight herbal snap and a savory edge, giving it texture.
Finish: Clean and refreshing with a mouthwatering saline lift and a whisper of wild raspberry lingering on the tongue.
This is not a blockbuster red. it’s delicate, transparent, and terroir-driven, a wine that invites contemplation rather than demand attention. For sommeliers, it’s a versatile by-the-glass gem; for drinkers, it’s a soulful discovery best served slightly chilled.
2. Roberto Henriquez, Molino del Ciego 2023 Itata. 100 percent Semillon grapes, sourced from vines over 100 years old.
Molino del Ciego 2023, is a skin-contact Semillón crafted with minimal intervention, unfiltered, with around 30 mg/L sulfur at bottling and aged in a combination of stainless steel and neutral barrels. The result is a mineral-driven, texturally compelling wine, offering floral and citrus aromas with layered complexity that invites contemplation.
In the misty Itata Valley of southern Chile, Roberto Henríquez has emerged as a steward of ancient viticulture. Since 2015, this agronomist-turned-winemaker has revived century-old Semillón vines, some over 100 years old, growing in granite-rich soils on the slopes of the Itata River basin. Farming organically and biodynamically, Roberto maintains low yields and practices traditional pipeño-style winemaking with manual destemming, gentle crushing, wild fermentation in raulí wood or concrete, and extended skin contact lasting several weeks.
In the Glass
- Eye: Golden-yellow hue, brightened by silver reflections and hints of amber.
- Nose: Enticing aromas of orange blossom, lime zest, and citrus peel mingle with floral honey, subtle white pepper, and herbal-medicinal tones.
- Palate: Dry and steely, with lively acidity. Flavors include papaya, pear, mandarin orange peel, and gentle honey. A hint of saline minerality and white pepper gives the wine structure, while texture hints at its oxidative and skin-influenced character.
- Finish: Long and clean, with lingering citrus notes, spice echoes, and that persistent mineral snap.
Molino del Ciego is a masterclass in respectful tradition and modern finesse. It reflects its ancient vineyard roots, textural complexity, and restrained power. Serve lightly chilled.
For sommeliers and wine lovers who prize authenticity, terroir, and thoughtful craftsmanship, this 2023 is a compelling glass of Chilean heritage.
© Dr.Elinor.Garely, InMyPersonalOpinion.Life.2025. All rights reserved. No part of this content may be reproduced, distributed, or used without permission. For inquiries, contact EG@InMyPersonalOpinion.Life, Dr.Elinor Garely.