This Lambrusco story might surprise even the most seasoned sommeliers, wine pros, wine fans, yes, even those who think they’ve sipped it all.
Recently I sat in a master class curated and directed by Alan Tardi, James Beard Award-winning wine writer, educator, and all-around industry scholar. If you’ve ever read Wine Spectator, Decanter, or the New York Times, you’ve probably come across Tardi’s work or perhaps you’ve even sat in on one of his famously immersive classes. As a Lambrusco fan, Tardi decided to share his love affair with others who “might” be like-minded.
It had been ages since my last deep dive into Modena’s vineyards, so when Tardi e-vited me to a Lambrusco master class, I could hardly wait for the new wine adventure. Honestly, for many, Lambrusco still conjures up memories of sweet, fizzy reds from the ‘80s, more vin de table than pedigree. But Tardi, with his chef’s palate and historian’s curiosity, set out to demolish the stereotypes.
Lambrusco. The Grape That Refuses to Behave
Lambrusco isn’t a single grape, but a sprawling family of ancient varieties that once grew wild in northern Italy. The name comes from the Latin “labrusca,” meaning wild vine, and these grapes were first domesticated by the Etruscans in the fertile Po Valley, home to cities like Milan, Bologna, and Parma. The valley’s rich soils and temperate climate have long made it ideal for agriculture, especially for Lambrusco.
What makes Lambrusco unique is its diversity. Sorbara is pale and floral, Grasparossa is bold and tannic, Salamino is balanced, and Maestri is dark and brooding. These varieties thrive in Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy, particularly around Modena, Parma, Reggio Emilia, and Mantua.
Lambrusco’s sparkling tradition predates Champagne, with natural re-fermentation in amphorae. In 1814, Count Vincenzo Dandolo formalized production methods in Modena. The late 20th century brought global fame, and a reputation for cheap sweetness, thanks to Riunite’s wildly popular exports. Since the 1990s, Lambrusco has undergone a renaissance. The IGP Emilia designation encourages quality and innovation, including white vinification of red grapes for Lambrusco Bianco. Producers are reviving traditional methods and crafting expressive, age-worthy wines, reestablishing Lambrusco as a wine of authenticity, nuance, and place.
Not Old. Bold!
The IGP Emilia (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) designation was established in 1995, covering key provinces like Modena and Reggio Emilia. This European quality label ensures that a product, like wine, is authentically tied to the Emilia region in northern Italy. For wines such as Lambrusco dell’Emilia IGP, this means at least one production stage occurs in Emilia-Romagna. The designation allows more flexibility than stricter labels (like DOP), supporting creative techniques and wider grape sourcing, while still preserving regional character in approachable, everyday wines.
Sommeliers and wine lovers are rediscovering the broad range of Lambrusco styles, its food-friendly nature, and charm. Today’s producers are bringing back time-honored techniques like Metodo Ancestrale and Metodo Classico, crafting expressive dry reds, rosés, and even whites with finesse. Some of these wines are surprisingly age-worthy, resting on the lees for years while keeping their brightness and subtle structure. With a renewed focus on terroir and thoughtful craftsmanship, Lambrusco is gracefully shedding the old stereotypes and stepping forward as a sparkling wine of authenticity and nuance. Lambrusco is no longer the wild child of Emilia-Romagna, but a wine of place, purpose, and pedigree.
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Two Faces of Lambrusco: The Artistry of Lini 910
At Cantina della Volta, winemaker Christian Bellei, a fourth-generation member of the Bellei family, supervises all aspects of vineyard management and winemaking. He is especially known for championing Metodo Classico (traditional method) sparkling wines, drawing on both family tradition and technical training in Champagne. Angela Sini, the president and co-founder, partnered with Christian and a group of wine-loving friends to launch Cantina della Volta in 2010, revitalizing the Bellei family’s historic winery site in Bomporto. Together, Christian and Angela lead the winery, with Christian focused on technical and winemaking expertise, and Angela providing strategic and business leadership. From the heart of Correggio in Emilia-Romagna, Lini 910 continues to push the boundaries of what Lambrusco can be.
🍇1. Lambrusco Bianco dell’Emilia IGP NV. Lini 910
A nontraditional take on Lambrusco, this white expression offers lifted aromatics, orchard fruit, and a crisp, textured finish. Made from gently pressed red grapes, it’s a versatile pour that invites pairing across a range of cuisines and it ideal for aperitifs or summer dining moments..
Lambrusco Bianco dell’Emilia IGP NV is a fresh, sparkling white wine from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, made by vinifying traditional red Lambrusco grapes, such as Salamino, Maestri, and Sorbara, without skin contact, resulting in a pale, lively wine. Most producers, including historic family wineries like Lini 910 and Chiarli, use the Charmat (tank) method to preserve the wine’s vibrant fruit and gentle bubbles. Sustainability is an increasing priority in both vineyard and cellar practices.
In the Glass
Lambrusco Bianco dell’Emilia IGP NV
- Appearance: Pale straw yellow with a delicate, persistent mousse.
- Nose: Vibrant aromas of lemon, lime, green apple, pear, apricot, grapefruit, and white flowers, with subtle mineral and herbal undertones.
- Palate: Crisp and refreshing, featuring lively acidity and gentle fruit notes; lemon, green apple, and white blossom. A touch of minerality adds depth, while the lightly effervescent texture keeps the wine playful and invigorating.
- Finish: Smooth, clean, and refreshing, with lingering citrus and a subtle earthy note.
Appeals. From Mass to Class
Casual wine drinkers who are seeking a lightly sweet, bubbly white with balanced minerality and acidity will make this a go-to wine. Aperitivo lovers who enjoy low-alcohol, refreshing wines (typically around 8–10%) will keep a chilled bottle ready for guests. Nostalgic consumers who remember Lambrusco’s heyday in the U.S. during the ’70s and ’80s, but now want a fresher, more balanced version will quickly share it with friends. Younger drinkers exploring affordable, fun sparkling wines with food-friendly versatility will become fans.
2. Vino Spumante di Qualita Metodo Classico Brut Rosso “In Correggio” 2007 Lini 910
Vino Spumante di Qualità Metodo Classico Brut Rosso “In Correggio” 2007 Lini 910 is a delicious example of traditional Lambrusco made using the classic Champagne method, which brings notable complexity, structure, and finesse to this sparkling red wine.
In the Glass
- Appearance: Deep ruby red with a persistent, fine mousse, indicative of extended bottle aging on the lees and careful secondary fermentation. The bubbles are fine and numerous, contributing to the wine’s elegance and visual appeal.
- Nose: Expressive aromas of wild red berries, cherry, raspberry, and strawberry, are prominent, alongside pomegranate and floral hints of violet. Subtle undertones of bread crust or brioche emerge, a hallmark of extended lees contacts in the Metodo Classico process.
- Palate: The wine is dry, crisp, and lively, showcasing bright acidity and a creamy mouthfeel from the fine bubbles. Flavors mirror the nose, with red currant, sour cherry, and a touch of earth or spice. There’s a savory, mineral edge that adds depth and complexity, while the structure remains balanced and refreshing. The extended bottle aging integrates the flavors and textures, yielding a harmonious and layered palate.
- Finish: Clean, refreshing, and persistent, with lingering notes of red fruit and a savory, mineral-driven finish. The aftertaste is both vibrant and elegant, inviting another sip.
This wine is a compelling choice for enthusiasts of traditional sparkling reds and those looking to explore the heights of artisanal Lambrusco.
Bright and Lively Future
Lambrusco has evolved from “Coca-Cola of wine” to a dynamic, regionally expressive sparkler that’s as at home in a Michelin-starred restaurant as it is at a backyard barbecue. If you haven’t tasted the new wave, now’s the time to rediscover what makes Lambrusco so compelling.
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