Kosher Food and Wine Experience in New York City Bubbe. It’s OK. It’s Kosher for Passover –
As a child I thought all wine was kosher; what could possibly be treyf? Who would have the chutzpah to make grapes – quietly fermenting in oak or stainless steel vat– un-kosher? I did not think that pigs had anything to do with grape planting and harvesting (after all – grapes are not truffles). I also thought the only wine made came in a Manischewitz bottle and tasted like grape juice.
When I was invited to attend the Kosher Food and Wine Experience recently held at Pier 60 – Chelsea Piers, I realized that an event covering space as vast the Pier was going to be important – and I had lots to learn about Kosher (means proper, correct and cleanliness) wines.
Wine + Jewish Life
I definitely thought that kosher wines were blessed by rabbis. Boy was I wrong! Wines are made kosher so that blessings can be made on and over them by anyone.
In the Beginning
The first mention of wine in the Bible occurs early in Genesis; Noah is said to have planted the first vineyard and to have become intoxicated when he drank the wine (9: 20–21). In a later reference, the spies Moses sends to explore the land of Canaan return with a cluster of grapes said to have been so large that they had to carry them on a pole (Numbers 13:23). The vine is also mentioned (in Deuteronomy 8:8) as one of the blessings of the good land promised to the Children of Israel.
Throughout the year we are encouraged to say our prayers (Kiddush) over wine. Whenever wine appears on a table a prayer is offered, Borei Pri HaGafen (Bless you God) “who created the fruit of the vine.” This is the blessing before drinking wine or grape juice; Borei means created; Pri means fruit; Gafen is a grapevine. Shabbos or Yom Tov is sanctified over wine, during the Pesach Seder the four expressions of freedom (Geulah) are expressed over wine; the Sheva Brachos is recited at a wedding over wine and it is shared at circumcisions and offered to baby boys (to soften the trauma?) when they are 8 days old.
Wine even plays an important part in creating a healthy life-style and we are encouraged to drink it as a defense against heart and cardiovascular diseases (especially red wine). Research studies suggest that some forms of cancer and dementia can be cured (or delayed) with wine.
Hands OFF
At the most basic level – Kosher wines can only be touched by Sabbath-observant Jews. Producers of kosher wine are forbidden to use any products (i.e., unauthorized yeasts or other potentially non-kosher ingredients) that might fall outside the parameters of Halacha (Jewish Religious Law). Non-kosher winemakers often use egg whites or gelatin to clarify the wine; kosher winemakers use bentonite, a clay material, to attract suspended particles and drag them down to the bottom of the barrel.
However, if the wine is designated as mevushal (a Hebrew word for boiled) the rules for handling the wine are relaxed. The mevushal wines are flash-pasteurized to a temperature that meets the requirements of an overseeing rabbinical authority. The technique does not necessarily harm the wine; a few well-known non-kosher wine makers believe it may enhance the aromatics.
For Jews, the technique simply alters the spiritual essence of a kosher wine, making it less susceptible to ritual proscription. This is a “blessing” for caterers, restaurants, and private clubs – for anyone can open a bottle of mevushal wine without altering its kosher status. By contrast, non-mevushal, or non-heated wines, are viewed as more sensitive to religious constraints and should be opened and poured exclusively by Sabbath-observant Jews.
Grapes can be grown and Kosher wine can be produced anywhere in the world. However, special rules apply for kosher wines made in Israel. For the first three years, fruit from a new vine must not be picked and every seventh year, fields cannot be harvested and there can be no crop produced. This rule is not conducive to good business and Israelis have found a way to circumvent the law.
When kosher wine is produced, marketed and sold commercially, it must have the hechsler (seal of approval) of a kosher supervising agency or organization, or of an authoritative rabbi who is preferably also a posek (decides Jewish law) or be supervised by a beth din (Jewish religious court of law).
Collecting Kosher Wines
How much is a bottle of kosher wines actually worth? As a 2011 wine auction, a double magnum (equal to four regular bottles) of Yarden red, the 1990 vintage of Katzrin, the top label of the Golan Heights Winery, produced only in select vintages sold for US$3,883. A six-bottle case of Kerem Ben Zimra Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, a still rich and chocolaty wine with an estimated value of US$300 to US$500, was bought for US$308 by Miriam Morgenstern, associate publisher of Wine Spectator Magazine.
A premium kosher wine from Herzog (a limited edition Generation VIII Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s famous To Kalon vineyard) is available at US$200 a bottle. The 2003 Chateau de Valandraud kosher wine from the Bordeaux region of France fetches as much as US$500 a bottle.
Bubbe would be proud! Drinking kosher wines is no longer a schande.
Sharp Elbows Required
Since 2007, the Kosher Food and Wine Experience has showcased a large array of kosher food and wines from around the world. The event gets bigger and better every year. At the most recent event – there were so many people – I had to use my sharp elbows to get to the following wine selections:
Herzog Jeunesse
Duette 2011
The winemaker, Joe Hurliman, brings us a wine that we can enjoy with or without a special occasion. Jeunesse is French for youthfulness and this wine is full of spirit – from the light pink color in the glass to the pears and apples, bananas, currants and black cherry fragrance it delivers to the nose. A bit of sweetness remains on the tongue – so serve it slightly chilled (not frosty) with roast beef and apple and walnut salad.
Herzog
Syrah Reserve 2004
Over 100 years ago, Philip Herzog, the founder of this wine dynasty, made wine in Slovakia for the Austro-Hungarian court. His wines were so appreciated by Emperor Franz-Josef, that he made Philip a baron. In 1985 the family opened their state-of-the-art winery in Oxnard, California (south of Santa Barbara).
The deep purple of the Syrah looks like old family velvet in the glass. It offers up an aroma of cherries and strawberries that are edged with lemons and pineapples plus a hint of spice and pepper. There is a slight tannin taste on the tongue from the oak along with light smoky tones that gives a mouth feel that is both sweet and dry. The taste is seductive – and I want another sip. Serve with pasta, veal and roast chicken.
Hagafen Estate Bottled
Dry Riesling 2012
Owned and operated by Irit and Ernie Weir, the winery started in 1979 and is located in California’s Napa Valley on the Silverado Trail between the Oak Knoll and Stag’s Leap appellations.
The Riesling is pale pink in the glass, leaning to clear. Presents a green grassy note to the nose with hints of celery and lettuce – more like a vegetable garden then a fruit orchard with a bit of pepper. The finish is refreshingly spicy. Serve alongside an omelet with fine herbs, and fresh challah with fresh creamy butter; for Passover, pair with gefilte fish.
Vincente Marin Jose Manuel Del Pedregal
Alfasi Malec/Syrah 2012
The wines are produced using grapes grown in the Maule Valley (south of Santiago), among the country’s largest wine producing region. The surrounding mountain ranges offer a cool, moisture-free climate that contributes to top-quality wines.
In the glass – look for purple hues leaning to pink. The nose is delighted with the aroma of rich fresh berries and raisins mixed with a hint of vanilla and coffee. A softly dry and sweet finish lingers on the tongue – delivering a surprise to the palate. Pair with lox and cream cheese on a fresh/warm bagel or pastrami on rye bread.
Bartenura Sparkling
Moscato 2011
The medieval scholar Rabbi Ovadia of Bartenura is said to be the inspiration for this wine.
The Moscato grape is rich in perfumes, and the wine is geared towards preserving these aromas. Only the best grapes are used, and fermentation takes place at a low temperature in order to craft a wine with fresh, peachy perfumes and light, grapey fruit. It looks very pale in the glass but it trends to a foamy yellow. One sip and there is a slight tangy quality on the tongue. A bit on the sweet side – but lovely for a birthday party or a bris. Team with camembert and salty nuts to cut the sweetness. Ideal on its own as an aperitif. Serve chilled and drink young.
Not Just for Passover
Kosher wines are not just for Passover anymore; they compete successfully on the international market and pair beautifully with gourmet cuisine. The KFWE event is definitely worth time and effort – get there EARLY and stay late. For additional information contact Gary Landsman, Royal Wine Corp. or [email protected]
