Jose Penin
The Peñín Guide to Spanish Wine (Guía Peñín) has become a cornerstone of the Spanish wine industry, celebrated for its authoritative reviews and evaluations over the past 34 years. Established in 1989 by José Peñín, a distinguished Spanish wine journalist, the guide was created to document and assess Spain’s dynamic and evolving wine landscape. At its inception, Spanish wines were gaining recognition, but had yet to achieve the global prestige of their French and Italian counterparts.
Initially concentrating on established regions such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the guide soon expanded to include emerging wine areas, lesser-known producers, and unique varietals. Its dedication to showcasing Spain’s diverse terroirs and winemaking traditions made it a trusted resource for both enthusiasts and professionals. The adoption of the 100-point rating system provided a standardized benchmark for quality, with wines scoring 90 points or more garnering significant attention from collectors and consumers.
Over the years, the Peñín Guide has played a transformative role in elevating Spanish wines globally. It introduced the world to regions like Priorat, Rías Baixas, Jumilla, and Toro, while also democratizing exposure for small and independent wineries. Its translation into English in the early 2000s and the integration of digital platforms broadened its international reach, allowing audiences to access reviews, participate in tastings, and explore wines through its searchable databases.
In recent editions, the guide has placed strong emphasis on organic, biodynamic, and sustainable winemaking practices, reflecting contemporary trends in viticulture. Dubbed the “Bible of Spanish Wine,” the Peñín Guide continues to review thousands of wines annually from more than 70 appellations, solidifying its status as an indispensable resource for sommeliers, wine professionals, and enthusiasts worldwide. Its enduring impact highlights the rich evolution of Spanish viticulture and its bright future on the world stage.
Trends
The Spanish wine industry is experiencing several notable trends from to 2024-2025, reflecting shifts in production, consumption, and market dynamics.
1. Increased Bulk Wine Exports
Bulk wine continues to play a significant role in Spain’s wine exports. As of July 2024, bulk wine accounted for 57% of the total volume of Spanish wine exports, indicating its importance in the global market. While bottled wine exports have seen a decline in both value and volume, bulk wine exports have grown, rising by 5.9% in value and 1% in volume. This growth persists despite global economic uncertainties and fluctuating demand in key markets.
2. Shifts in Domestic Consumption
Wine consumption in Spain grew by 1.3% year-on-year up to July 2024, totaling 9.76 million hectoliters. This moderate growth is attributed to the greater price stability achieved in 2023 and 2024 and the expansion of tourism, which has boosted the Hotel, Restaurant, and Institutional (HRI) channel consumption. However, this increase in HRI sales did not compensate for the reduction in household wine consumption.
3. Emphasis on Sustainability
In response to growing consumer sensitivities regarding climate change, the Spanish Wine Federation (FEV) has implemented a certification called “Sustainable Wineries for Climate Protection.” This initiative aimed to address environmental concerns and promote sustainable practices within the industry.
4. Exploration of Native Grape Varieties
Winemakers in regions like Catalonia are moving beyond traditional Cava production to create unique styles of sparkling wine using native and niche grape varieties. This trend involves reviving long-neglected grapes like Trepat and Sumoll, known as the “Pinot Noir of the Mediterranean,” which are now being recognized for their suitability to the region’s climate.
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1. 2017 Baron de Chirel. T GR. Bodegas Marques de Riscal. Rioja. Tempranillo blend
The Winery
Bodegas Marqués de Riscal, one of Spain’s most iconic wineries, was founded in 1858 in the Rioja region. It is renowned for blending tradition and innovation, serving as a pioneer in introducing Bordeaux winemaking techniques to Spain. Over the years, the winery has gained a reputation for producing exceptional wines that reflect the character and terroir of Rioja. The winery is also known for the avant-garde architecture of its City of Wine, designed by Frank Gehry. The winery combines heritage with modernity, crafting wines that honor Rioja’s traditions while exploring new frontiers of excellence.
Notes
Baron de Chirel 2017 was produced from carefully selected grapes sourced from vines (over 40 years old) in Rioja Alavesa. The wine undergoes fermentation in small wooden vats to preserve its complexity and richness. It was aged for 24 months in French oak barrels, followed by additional time in a bottle.
The eye is rewarded with a deep, intense ruby-red color with garnet reflections at the rim, indicating its age. An elegant and complex bouquet with a harmonious blend of aromas of ripe blackberries, cherries, and plums with subtle hints of vanilla, cedar, and toasted oak from barrel ageing. There are also nuances of leather, tobacco, spices (clove, cinnamon), and dried herbs, characteristic of its extended maturation. Full-bodied with refined tannins and a velvety texture on the palate with a balance of rich fruit (think blackcurrants and blackberries) plus savory notes of smokey earth. The finish is long and persistent, with lingering notes of dark chocolate, coffee, and spice.
2. 2016 Las Tierras de Javier Rodriguez El Teso Alto. Bodega Rodriguez y Sanzo. 100 percent Toro Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo clone). High-end single vineyard red
The Winery
Bodega Rodríguez y Sanzo is a family-run winery established by Javier Rodríguez in the 1990s. It represents a modern approach to Spanish winemaking, combining traditional methods with innovative techniques. The winery operates across several of Spain’s Denominación de Origen (D.O.) regions, including Toro, Rueda, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, and Priorat. This multi-regional focus allowed Rodríguez and Sanzo to highlight Spain’s diverse terroirs and native grape varieties.
In Toro, one of Spain’s most ancient and prestigious wine regions, the winery is renowned for its work with Tinta de Toro (a local clone of Tempranillo). The region’s harsh climate, sandy soils, and old, ungrafted vines provide an ideal setting for crafting powerful yet refined wines. Rodríguez y Sanzo emphasizes sustainability, low-intervention winemaking, and the use of diverse oak treatments to express the unique character of each vineyard.
Las Tierras de Javier Rodríguez El Teso Alto is crafted from grapes grown on a single, high-altitude vineyard with old, ungrafted vines (60–100 years old). The wine is vinified with meticulous care to preserve the authenticity of the Tinta de Toro grape. Small stainless-steel tanks are used for fermentation to maintain control over the process. The wine is aged for 18–24 months in French oak barrels, followed by extended bottle aging to integrate flavors and refine tannins.
Notes
This single vineyard red high-end wine presents a wonderful visual with an opaque, inky black-cherry color and a deep ruby rim. A captivating and complex aromatic profile of Intense black fruits, including blackberry, blackcurrant, and plum delight the nose. There are also notes of dark chocolate, espresso, and toasted oak derived from barrel aging. Look for hints of leather, tobacco, and dried figs.
Full-bodied and opulent, with firm yet polished tannins on the palate with well-balanced acidity providing freshness that counterbalances wine density. There are concentrated flavors of black fruits, licorice, and mocha, complemented by hints of spices (nutmeg, black pepper) and a mineral undertone. The exceptionally long and persistent finish leaves traces of smoky oak, balsamic notes, and dark berries.
