With 99 percent of the population of Turkey noted as Muslim, it is frequently a surprise to learn that Turkey produces excellent wines.
Turkey is an anomaly in the region. Compared to its neighbors (Syria and Iraq to the south; Iran, Armenia and Azerbaijani exclave of Nakhichevan to the east) this country is considered progressive and often finds itself aligned with European and North American interests and values. Mixing modern industry and commerce, Turkey presents a strong and rapidly growing $800 billion economy that supports and encourages private sector growth and development. At the moment, the most important industry in the country is textiles and clothing and it is a major exporter of these products. As the country seeks to become a member of the EU increased Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) is expected.
A recent visit to Istanbul and Cappadocia demonstrated to me that international organizations are not waiting for EU acceptance; global enterprises are moving quickly to put their mark, brand, logo and resources into this very dynamic economy.
Progressive Wine Industry
Geographically, Turkey is considered very suitable for wineries. With 516,000 hectares of vineyards, Turkey is the 4th largest grape growing country in the world; 2 percent of the country’s agricultural lands are covered by vineyards and 3 percent is dedicated to wine production which is concentrated in the provinces of: Manisa, Denizli, Ismir, Canakkale, Tekirdag, Ankara, Kirsehir, Nevseir, Gaziantep, Elazig and Diyarbakir.
In Turkey today there are over 100 separate wineries producing between 75 – 100 million liters of wine annually. Turkey ranks 35th in world wine production, compared to the top producer France, who produces over 46.5 billion liters of wine a year. The noted wine expert, Taner Ogutoglu notes that “…only around 3 million liters is exported, worth around $8 million. However, I do believe that exports will be the main driver of growth for Turkish wine production over the medium term.”
Challenges
While the prognosis for the wines of Turkey is excellent a recent study of 42 wine enterprises – 37 claimed that the consumption tax and government’s attitude toward the wine sector hindered both production and consumption. The 63.3 percent special consumption tax (SCT) for all wines, plus an 18 percent value added tax (VAT) dampens wines consumption in Turkey. (Turkey imposes the highest taxes on wine sales in Europe; in terms of GDP, Turkey has the highest taxes in Europe). Other roadblocks include the “unregistered” economy, issues related to governmental intervention and the weak capital structure of the sector.
Birth and Rebirth
History suggests that Turkey is the cradle of wine making and the process started in 11,000 BC. This concept has been documented with the recent discovery of ancient wine-making equipment dating back at least 6000 years.
During the 500 years of the Ottoman Empire wine was forbidden, although, starting in the early 16th century a small percent of Jews and Christians were permitted to make wine for religious purposes. Finally, after WWI, Mustafa Kernal Ataturk, the first president of the country, initiated the first commercial winery, Doulca (1925).
In the 1980’s innovative efforts were made to increase tourism to Turkey and there were….”economic reforms put in place by Prime Minister Turgut Ozal, who significantly liberalized the economy,” according to Taner Ogutoglu, the former Director of Wines of Turkey. Ogutoglu notes that….”tourists started to visit Turkey on holiday, they wanted to drink wine, which solidly promoted the growth of the industry.” The growth in visitors motivated wine producers to improve the quality of their product and increase availability. Investments were made in new technology and plant modernization, and new firms entered the marketplace.
Tourists Love Wine
While politics, ocean currents and beaches may ebb and flow, wine tourism (including visits to vineyards, wineries, festivals and wine events) is definitely a growing trend and receiving new attention in Turkey for it is viewed as part of the sustainable tourism development plan. Tourists visit destinations to taste wine, gain knowledge about wines, experience the environment where the wine is made, meet the wine makers, learn about farming, match wine with food and have fun. Wine tourism also focuses on the “green” aspects of a destination and promotes it as a healthy travel opportunity.
Wine tourism contributes to the economic and social fabric of the region. It also addresses environmental concerns for development, increases sales of local production and creates new jobs. Wine tourism also encourages the establishment of new tourism facilities including restaurants and hotels.
Drinking Points
Within the country, the hotels, restaurants and catering (HORECA) purchase most of the wine produced because, a. Turkish people do their entertaining outside of their homes, and b. the sector caters to the 20-25 million tourists who visit Turkey each year.
Hotels and restaurants purchase wines through special distributors and smaller businesses buy from wholesalers and retailers (i.e., supermarkets). Hotels and restaurants offer one or two of the most popular brands (i.e., Kavaklidere, Pammukale, Mey Gida/formerly Tekel) although there is a growing demand for new and/or different wine experiences.
Over the last few years, Turkish wines have received excellent ratings, with noted entrance-to-medal rate of nearly 78 percent in the most respected international wine challenges (Decanter, IWC and IWSC). From 2011 to 2013 Turkish wines won more than 1000 medals (including double gold and regional trophies) in important global competitions becoming the most successful years for Turkish wines to date.
Major Players
Kavaklidere
Cenap And started the winery in 1929 and was the first private sector wine producer in Turkey; today it is the largest winery in the country, producing over 19.5 million liters annually and exporting 20 percent to Europe, the US, and the Far East. The winery has over 645 hectares of vineyards spread over 7 different locations in the Aegean, Central Anatolia and eastern Anatolia and offers 56 different types of wine.
kavaklidere.com
Corvus (Latin word = Crow; named for the mythological bird that Apollo punished by turning it from white to black)
Founded August 2002, Architect Resit Soley planted seedlings on 200 hectares of the barren lands of Bozcaada in the North Aegean Sea based on intense analysis of terroir and the meteorological data of the last 20 years. In 2003 the seedlings came to leaf and in 2004 he developed the Corvus Wine Factory, equipping it with the latest irrigation and cellar technology. Soley selected Bozcaada for his winery because he believed the area was losing its ancient wine culture and wanted to reverse the trend. Using his experience in design, he integrated tradition and technology and gave new life and new meaning to the island’s wine culture.
Jancis Robinson, a note wined writer ranked Corvus Corpus 2004, using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz grapes, and Corvus Blend No. 2, 2005, a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Karalaha grapes –a rating of 17 and 16.5 out of 20 – making them the highest scoring Turkish wines in the competition.
On Bozcaada, visit the Corvus (corvus.com.tr) cellar door for tastings from June 1 to September 1; Corvus Wine Bar in Istanbul (Cumhuriyed Caddessi); sample Corvus wines at the shop on Ortakoy Meydan, Keymakci Sokak 3
corvus.com.tr
Doluca
In 1926, Nihat A. Kutman started a small bottling plant in Galata, Istanbul (Maison Vinicole becoming Doluca). He researched wine making in Europe, brought grape varieties and started to grow them in various locations around Murette. The wines from these grapes were introduced in the 1940s and were very successful. In 1969 Kutman’s son, Ahmet, joined the company after receiving a degree in Food Technology, Oenology and Viticulture at the University of California at Davis. In 1990, Ahmet, together with Guven Hil, developed a new organization (Sarafin) and established a modern vineyard growing Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wines were presented in 1998. Today Doluca presents over 40 different products and Sibel Kutman and her son Ali Kutman manage the organization.
doluca.com
Pamukkale
Pamukkale was founded in 1962. While it has only one vineyard and a production facility in Denizli, it produces over 4 million liters of wine a year and exports over 30 percent of its production internationally to Germany, France, the Netherlands, Austria, Denmark, and Japan. It has an 8 percent market share of domestic sales.
pamukkalesarap.com
Vinkara
Vinkara Winery is a relatively new company that began production in 2003-2004. It has vineyards and production facilities on 420 acres and focuses on the development and production of Kalecik, Okuzgozu, Emir and Narince grapes from Anatolia. Vinkara also processes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling. It bottles 1 million+ liters per year and has won 33 Grand Gold medals for some of its wines. It is also the first vineyard to produce a Turkish sparkling wine using traditional methods.
vinkarawines.com
Sevilen
Started by Isa Guner from Bulgaria in 1942 in Izmir, Turkey on 4 hectares, it currently controls 160 hectares of vineyards and is managed by the third generation of the Guner family. Sevilen wines are produced from grapes from the Aegean area near Izmir (warm Mediterranean climate) and the Anatolia plateau (cool Mediterranean climate). Utilizing the winemaking expertise of Floren Dumeau from Bordeaux, the company produces 10 million bottles yearly using modern winemaking techniques. Sevilen partners with a Turkish university to develop the best methods for producing quality French oak barrels.
sevilengroup.com
Turasan
Based in Cappadocia (mid-southern region of Anatolia), Turasan was the first private winery in the region (1943) and is currently managed by Hasan Turasan. Wines have been produced in Cappadocia for over 7000 years starting with the Hittites and Byzantines. Known for being unique in producing Emir (primary native white grape of Cappadocia that does not grow anywhere else in the world), the grape flourishes in the region’s volcanic soils and unique microclimate (high altitude, hot days, cool nights). Another indigenous grape, Kalecik Karasi receives its concentrated and fresh aromas from the unique Cappadocia climate.
turasanwines.blogspot.com
Go For the Wine
With grapes unique to the region, a history of excellent wine production, and a favorable climate, the focus on wine tourism is likely to continue to be a positive revenue generator and Turkey is positioned to be a center for wine tourism. For additional information on wine tourism in Turkey.
goturkeytourism.com
This copyright article may not be reproduced without written permission from the author. [email protected]
