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Marche, located south of Emilia-Romagna, east of Tuscany and Umbria, and north of Abruzzo, boasts a diverse landscape shaped by the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Ancona, its capital and largest city, graces the coastline with a population of approximately 100,000.
Le Marche, as it’s known, stands as a formidable wine region, not merely because it nurtured Cesare Mondavi, founder of one of America’s esteemed wine dynasties. The region’s blend of calcareous and limestone soil sets a strong foundation for viticulture, while its transition from Mediterranean warmth to continental crispness offers a varied climate that enriches the wines produced here.
Though often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors—Abruzzo to the south, and Umbria and Tuscany to the west—this region produces exceptional wines. The name “Le Marche” derives from the medieval communes that once thrived in the area. Ancona, the regional capital, historically served as a significant port for various civilizations, including the Roman Empire. Today, Le Marche beckons with its stunning coastline, drawing countless tourists to its white sandy beaches, towering cliffs, and crystalline waters.
However, it’s inland where the wine story truly unfolds. Bordered by the Apennine Mountain Range to the west and the Adriatic Sea to the east, the region offers a mosaic of terroirs, characterized by calcareous and limestone-rich soils. While the southern reaches enjoy a Mediterranean maritime influence, the northern territories exhibit a more continental climate. Le Marche boasts an array of DOCs (15) and DOCGs (5), reflecting its rich viticultural heritage and commitment to quality winemaking.
Marche annually produces approximately 10.7 million cases of wine, equivalent to over 120 million bottles. Of this quantity, about 60% lacks specific classification, referred to as vino da tavola or table wine. Much of this is intended for local consumption or distribution. The remaining 40% falls into three categories based on origin and production methods. The largest category is DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), indicating wines produced from grapes grown in defined areas, adhering to specific composition and production standards. Marche boasts 15 DOCs.
Ancient Beginnings
The Piceni and Roman Eras
The history of winemaking in the Marche region of Italy stretches back over 2,500 years, originating with the ancient Piceni people who inhabited the area. They were among Italy’s earliest winemakers, cultivating grapes and producing wine in the pre-Roman era, before 300 BC. When the Romans conquered the region in the 3rd century BC, they not only continued the Piceni’s viticultural practices but also expanded them, planting more vineyards and refining the winemaking processes.
Medieval Flourish
The Benedictine Influence
Winemaking in Marche flourished during the Middle Ages, particularly under the care of Benedictine monks. These monks cultivated vineyards and produced wines primarily for religious purposes, establishing the foundation for the region’s enduring winemaking traditions. During this period, the Verdicchio grape was firmly established as Marche’s signature white variety, setting a standard for quality that persists today.
Renaissance to 19th Century
Expansion and Challenges
From the Renaissance through to the 19th century, winemaking in Marche continued to thrive. Areas such as Jesi and Matelica became renowned for their exceptional wines. By the 16th and 17th centuries, the reputation of Marche wines extended well beyond the local region. However, the 19th century brought significant challenges, particularly the devastating phylloxera epidemic, which decimated many vineyards and led to a period of decline in the region’s winemaking industry.
20th Century Revival
Modernization and Recognition
After recovering from the phylloxera epidemic, the 20th century marked a renaissance in Marche winemaking. The establishment of DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) laws provided protected status to key regional wines such as Verdicchio and Rosso Conero, ensuring their quality and heritage were preserved. Investments in modernizing vineyards and wineries further improved the quality of Marche wines, positioning the region as a significant player in the Italian wine industry.
Contemporary Marche
Tradition Meets Innovation
Today, Marche balances its ancient winemaking traditions with innovative and sustainable viticulture techniques. The region, although relatively small, has shown substantial potential, particularly in organic farming. Over 5,600 hectares are now bio-certified, with organic farming growing at a rate of approximately 7% per year.
Academic and Research Excellence
The region’s dedication to quality and innovation is also reflected in its strong emphasis on education and research. Several renowned institutions contribute to the advancement of agricultural and viticultural knowledge:
· The Agricultural Institute of Macerata. Played a crucial role in developing agricultural knowledge following Italy’s unification.
· The Accademia Georgica of Treia. One of the world’s oldest institutions dedicated to agricultural studies.
· The University of Camerino. Famous for its botany faculty and contributions to agricultural science.
· The Politecnica Marche. A well-regarded research center known for its studies in various fields, including viticulture.
Quality and Potential of Marche Wines
Despite occasional challenges, such as the presence of flawed or overly diluted wines due to high yields, the general standard of winemaking in Marche is impressively high. With a bit of knowledge, wine enthusiasts can easily find exceptional wines from the region. The future of Marche winemaking looks bright, promising continued growth and increasing recognition for its dedication to both tradition and innovation.
Overall, Marche wines are known for their complexity, balance, and character, which are the result of the combination of the region’s terroir, climate, and winemakers’ tradition and expertise. They offer a wide variety of flavors and taste that can please different palates and pair well with different dishes.
The most notable characteristics of Marche wines include:
- Crisp acidity, minerality, and distinctive nutty notes (especially when aged in oak barrels)
- Rich, complex flavors and aromas with notes of citrus and tropical fruits
- Rich, full-bodied flavors, and complimentary tannins with a long finish
- Notes of spices, leather, tobacco, plumbs, and cherries
- Balance and character
My Personal Opinion
If you are in the wine industry, you know that Angela Carletti Velenosi is a force to be reckoned with. Born on May 4, 1961, she entered the wine industry in 1983, at the age of 20. She had no prior experience or family heritage in winemaking; however, without experience or a wine education she and her Ercole learned and mastered everything from viticulture to the technical intricacies of winemaking including the business operations required to run a winery.
She was able to enter the wine industry thanks to the Italian government who offered her a 3 million lira low-interest loan to encourage her to open a winery in the Marche region. This financial support was crucial in enabling her to start the enterprise as it provided the capital needed to invest in vineyards, and equipment, facilitation growth and development.
Her modest beginning included two wines and a mere 9 hectares of vineyards. Today she is a prominent figure in the Italian wine industry, renowned for her innovative approach and dedication to crafting exceptional wines. Her winery currently includes a portfolio of 34 wines and spans 148 hectares, standing as one of Marche’s preeminent family-owned wineries.
Velenosi wines are exported to 50 countries and the portfolio includes meticulously crafted whites, reds, and rosés. From the crisp and aromatic Verdicchio whites to the robust and elegant Montepulciano reds, Velenosi offers something for every palate.
As the founder and driving force behind Velenosi Wines, she has played a pivotal role in elevating the reputation of the Marche region as a producer of high-quality wines and a significant contributor to the revival and promotion of the local grape varieties like Passerina and Pecorino.
Angela’s entrepreneurial ability shone brightly as she moved through the predominantly male-dominated viticultural landscape of the 1980s. Her steadfast commitment to excellence and unyielding passion for wine served as catalysts for her success, earning her recognition as one of the pioneering women in Italy to establish a winery. Angela’s credo, encapsulated in her assertion that “passion was in her blood,” resonates throughout her remarkable accomplishments with Velenosi Winery.
Transitioning into the role of President of the Consorzio dei Vini Piceni provided an enlightening experience, shifting her perspective from singular to plural. This broader outlook encompasses a myriad of experiences, from the viewpoint of small producers to farmers and winemakers, all integral members of the Consorzio. Embracing this diversity facilitates personal growth and a deeper understanding of the sector’s nuances. Negotiating the complexities of political dynamics within the Consorzio adds another layer of challenge, as Angela strives to find common ground by mediating between stakeholders and representing the collective interests of its members.
Angela Velenosi’s wines have earned numerous accolades and awards over the years, cementing her reputation as one of Italy’s leading winemakers.
· Awards include:
· Berliner International Wine Competition 2020
· Berliner Wine trophy
· Challenge International du Vin
· China Awards 2020
· Concours Mondial de Bruxelles
· CWSA Best Value 2020
· Decanter World Wine Awards
· Gilbert & Gaillard Guide 2020
· International Wine Challenge
· James Suckling’s Top 100 Italian Wines
· Japan Wine Challenge 2019, SILVER MEDAL
· Luca Maroni 2020
· Mundus Vini
· Sakura Japan Women’s Wine Award 2020
· Vinitaly International Wine Competition
It is About the Wines
1. 2023. Pecorino Offida Villa Angela DOCG. 100 percent Pecorino Fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 6 months and bottle aging for 2 months.
The 2023 Pecorino Offida Villa Angela DOCG is a remarkable white wine from the Marche region in central Italy. The name “Pecorino” is derived from the sheep that nibble on the grapes as shepherds move their flocks. If the sheep like it, you’ll likely enjoy it too! The soil in this region is sandy and mixed, contributing to the wine’s unique character.
The wine’s lively and refreshing straw yellow hue with greenish hints reflects the deliciousness inside the bottle. The aroma is a fruit lover’s dream, featuring notes of bananas, pineapples, and apples. On the palate, it is fresh and well-structured, making it a best friend (BBF) with fish dishes like salmon and seafood pasta, as well as chicken and veal.
Grape Variety
Pecorino is a white grape variety native to Italy, especially in the Marche, Abruzzo, and Umbria regions. It is celebrated for producing wines with high acidity and aromatic intensity.
Aroma
The wine often boasts a floral aromatic profile with notes of acacia, alongside tropical fruits like pineapple and mango, and citrus such as lemon and grapefruit. There can also be subtle herbal and mineral undertones.
Palate
Pecorino wines are known for their bright acidity and vibrant freshness. The 2023 vintage of Pecorino Offida Villa Angela DOCG is expected to have a well-balanced structure with flavors that mirror the aromas, including citrus, tropical fruits, and a touch of minerality. The finish is typically crisp and refreshing.
Serving Temperature
It is best served chilled, at a temperature between 8-10°C (46-50°F)
2. 2020. VersoSera Colline Teramane DOCG. A distinguished red wine from the Abruzzo region in central Italy; represents the pinnacle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, hailing from the specific sub-region of Colline Teramane
In the heart of the Abruzzo region of Italy, nestled amidst rolling hills and verdant vineyards, lies the esteemed Colline Teramane DOCG. This esteemed appellation is renowned for producing exceptional wines that showcase the unique terroir and vinicultural heritage of the region. Among the many outstanding bottles to emerge from this hallowed ground, the 2020 VersoSera Colline Teramane DOCG stands out as a testament to the artistry and dedication of its creators.
The 2020 VersoSera Colline Teramane DOCG is a masterful blend of two noble grape varieties: Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon. Montepulciano, the indigenous grape of Abruzzo, contributes a robust structure, deep color, and intense aromas of ripe red fruits. Cabernet Sauvignon, the world-renowned Bordeaux variety, adds complexity, elegance, and a velvety texture. Together, these grapes create a harmonious and multifaceted wine that is both captivating and unforgettable.
Meticulous Cultivation and Winemaking
The grapes used to produce the 2020 VersoSera Colline Teramane DOCG are meticulously cultivated in the vineyards of the Colline Teramane hills. The region’s unique microclimate, characterized by warm days and cool nights, ensures optimal ripening conditions for the grapes. The vines are carefully tended throughout the growing season, with rigorous pruning and canopy management techniques employed to maximize fruit quality.
Once harvested, the grapes are gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel tanks under controlled temperature conditions. The wine undergoes a prolonged maceration period on the skins, extracting maximum flavor and color. Following fermentation, the wine is aged for 18 months in a combination of French oak barrels and large Slavonian oak casks. This aging process imparts a subtle complexity and richness to the wine, while preserving its vibrant fruit character.
Tasting Notes
The 2020 VersoSera Colline Teramane DOCG presents a deep, garnet-red color with shimmering reflections. The nose is an explosion of aromas, with intense notes of ripe blackberries, juicy plums, and fragrant violets. Hints of spice, tobacco, and roasted coffee add layers of complexity.
On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and velvety, with a well-balanced acidity that provides structure and freshness. The tannins are ripe and elegant, contributing to a smooth and harmonious mouthfeel. Flavors of dark chocolate, ripe cherries, and toasted almonds linger on the long, persistent finish.
Food Pairing
An ideal accompaniment to hearty meat dishes, such as grilled steaks, roasted lamb, and braised short ribs. The wine’s complexity also complements aged cheeses, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano.
© Dr. Elinor Garely. This copyright article, including photos, may not be reproduced without written permission from the author.
