I recently attended a wine trade event sponsored by Guía Peñín, a prestigious Spanish wine guide renowned for its meticulous evaluation and rating of wines from across Spain. Founded by José Peñín, the guide is highly regarded for its rigorous tasting protocols and comprehensive coverage of Spanish wines.
Using a sophisticated 100-point scale, the guide assesses wines based on criteria such as aroma, palate, structure, and overall quality. Wines achieving a score of 90 points or higher are recognized as exceptional, while those scoring below 80 points are generally considered average or below par.
Searching for the WOW
When I attend a wine trade master class, it’s not uncommon to discover one or two exceptional wines among the line up. However, the majority—perhaps eight, ten, or even twelve—tend to be okay, but lack a truly wow-inducing quality. However, my expectations underwent a significant shift during a recent Guia Penin event in NYC. Out of the ten wines presented, an astonishing nine fell into the categories of great, greater, or absolutely terrific.
My Personal Opinion
1. 2016 Las Tierras de Javier Rodriguez El Teso Alto. Tempranillo (100%)
Las Tierras de Javier Rodríguez “El Teso Alto” is a rare and prestigious wine crafted by Rodríguez Sanzo under the guidance of winemaker Javier Rodríguez. It originates from a single pre-phylloxera vineyard in El Ego, situated 830 meters above sea level, with vines planted in 1886.
The winemaking process begins with meticulous grape selection on a sorting table, followed by protection with dry ice and fermentation in wooden vats with extended skin contact of 25-30 days. After pressing, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in 225-, 300-, and 500-liter barrels, where it matures for three years in 80% French oak and 20% American oak.
Established in 2003, Rodríguez Sanzo is celebrated for its eco-friendly practices and dedication to organic and biodynamic methods, ensuring wines that authentically reflect their terroir.
The 2016 vintage of “El Teso Alto” is renowned for its complexity, offering a symphony of flavors including ripe red fruits, oak, vanilla, and minerality. It pairs superbly with grilled red meats, game meats, and aged cheeses, culminating in a velvety finish with integrated tannins and refined acidity.
• Notes
Appearance
The wine pours a deep ruby color, hinting at its concentration and youthfulness.
Aroma
On the nose, it presents a complex bouquet of ripe blackberries, cherries, and plums, intertwined with notes of vanilla, cedar, and subtle hints of spice from oak aging. There’s also a touch of leather and tobacco, adding depth and complexity.
Palate
The palate is rich and full-bodied, with velvety tannins that provide structure and balance. Flavors of dark fruits dominate, complemented by layers of toasty oak and a touch of chocolate. The wine has a lively acidity that enhances its freshness and ensures a long, persistent finish.
Overall
It embodies the essence of Tempranillo with its fruit-forward profile, balanced by elegant oak integration and a seamless structure.
2. 1730 VORS Amontillado BF S AM Alvaro Domecq is an aged Amontillado sherry produced by Bodegas Alvaro Domecq in Jerez, Spain.
The 1730 VORS Amontillado BF S AM by Alvaro Domecq originates from one of the oldest and most esteemed Sherry vineyards in Jerez, Spain. Here are some insights into the vineyard and its significance:
The vineyard dates back to the year 1730, highlighting centuries of winemaking tradition and expertise in the Jerez region. The term “VORS” (Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum) signifies a Sherry that has been aged for more than 30 years in the traditional Solera system, with “BF S AM” indicating specific details about the aging process and vineyard batches involved. This classification is reserved for Sherries of exceptional quality and rarity.
Alvaro Domecq is a respected name in Sherry production, known for upholding the highest standards of craftsmanship and quality. The family’s dedication to traditional methods and their expertise in handling the unique climatic conditions of Jerez contribute to the distinct character of their Sherries.
The vineyard benefits from the unique microclimate of Jerez, characterized by hot summers and mild winters, which are ideal for the cultivation of Palomino grapes used in Sherry production. The chalky soils of the region also play a crucial role in imparting minerality and complexity to the grapes.
The 1730 VORS Amontillado undergoes a meticulous aging process in the Solera and Criadera system, where older wines blend with younger ones over time. This process allows for the development of the Sherry’s distinctive flavors and aromas, including its characteristic nutty, oxidative notes and rich complexity.
• Notes
Appearance
This Sherry displays a deep amber color with golden hues, indicating its lengthy aging process.
Aroma
The nose is intensely aromatic, offering a complex array of aromas. Initial notes of toasted almonds, hazelnuts, and walnuts are complemented by hints of caramel, dried figs, apricot, lemon, honey, honey suckle, and orange peel. There’s a subtle saline quality that reflects its origin and aging under flor, a layer of yeast that forms naturally on top of sherries during their aging process. This layer protects the wine from oxidation and contributes unique flavors and aromas to the wine as it matures. Wines aged under flor often develop characteristics such as nuttiness, dryness, and indeed, a subtle saline quality.
Palate
Rich and velvety, with a pronounced nutty character and a touch of oxidative complexity on the palate. Flavors of dried fruits such as apricots and dates emerge, alongside nuances of toffee and a delicate spice. The acidity is well-integrated, providing freshness and balance to the wine’s richness.
Finish
The finish is long and persistent, leaving lingering impressions a tart underlayer that intensifies the suggestion of fresh nuts and a hint of sea breeze.
3. Bodegas Chivite Colección 125 Vendimia Tardía (late harvest) 2021 B FB D (letter denote specific details about the wine, such as vineyard block (B), the type of fermentation (FB), and perhaps the specific designation (D).
Wineries use codes to differentiate batches or to indicate certain production methods or characteristics). This wine has been produced from the varieties Moscatel de grano menudo, originating from the vineyard “El Candelero”, planted in 1969 and harvested by hand with 12 selection processes from October to December. 100% Moscatel de Grano Menudo
Grapes were harvested later than usual, allowing them to ripen further on the vine. Late harvesting can lead to grapes with higher sugar content and more concentrated flavors, often desirable for dessert or late harvest wines.
Quality and Characteristics
Wines labeled as ‘Colección’ typically denote a special collection or series by the producer, often signaling higher quality or uniqueness. Bodegas Chivite, a renowned Spanish winery with a history dating back to 1647, ‘Colección 125’ marks a commemoration of significant milestones or exceptional vintages, with ‘125’ likely signifying an anniversary or special edition release. This natural sweet wine is produced from the best small-grain muscat grapes overripe on the El Candelero vineyard’s own vines, 45 years old, and fermented for 5 months in new French oak barrels.
Crafted from meticulously selected small-grain Muscat grapes, overripe on the 45-year-old vines of the El Candelero vineyard, the undergoes a precise fermentation process for 5 months in new French oak barrels. This artisanal approach results in a natural sweet wine acclaimed as one of the finest in Spain.
• Notes
Presenting an intense golden hue, the wine greets the nose with a complex bouquet featuring acacia, sandalwood, and candied fruit aromas. On the palate, it is elegant and expressive, offering a broad entry with excellent balance, silkiness, and a lingering finish. Despite its sweetness, the wine maintains freshness from its balanced acidity. Known for its luscious mouthfeel, it showcases rich honeyed notes alongside ripe tropical fruits and apricots.
With an intense and bright golden color, the nose offers a complex and powerful bouquet with notes of acacia, sandalwood, and candied fruit. Elegant and expressive, in the mouth it shows a wide entry and very good balance. Silky, with good acidity and very long. The artisanal and delicate treatment that this wine has received gives it a notable capacity for aging in the bottle.
© Dr. Elinor Garely. This copyright article, including photos, may not be reproduced without written permission from the author.
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